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Tag Archives: wiggle

Every day I’m wiggling

26 May

Well not everyday, but I couldn’t get that line out of my head, so down it went.

So the big news is that I have finished my wearable muslin wiggle dress – woot! And, I love it – double woot! If you follow me on Instagram you may have caught a little sneaky peak last week. There is one slight zipper related issue that we won’t talk about, but it’s really quite minute and no-one else would ever notice it. Well that’s what I tell myself anyway.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

And as this was originally planned as a Mad Med dress for Julia’s challenge (watched that deadline fly on by) it was inspired by this Joan Holloway number.

Now you’ve seen my gussets, but there’s a still a few other things to talk about here.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Hems

Given the ‘wearable muslin’ status of this dress it was not going to be lovingly hemmed by hand. That said, straight sewn hems irk me, which made for a great opportunity to try out my blind hem foot and stitch. Again, sneaky peak last week on Instragram. However for you non-Instagrammers, here’s how it went:

Gerties wiggle dress blind hem
Not ahhhmazing, however, still pretty good I think. I was happy anyway. And, interesting fact, apparently blind hem stitch is quite good for knits because it allows for the fabric stretching. Yes, write that down.

I didn’t want to lose any length, so I attached some wide black satin ribbon to the bottom of the dress, and then blind hemmed using it. Probably breaking some sewing god law, but wot-effa.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Sleeves

Due to my bulging biceps (tuck-shop lady arms really) the sleeves were a tad tight, so they were unpicked and re-stitched with only a 1cm seam allowance. They’re much better now, but I think a smidge too loose towards the bottom. Oh well.

They’re also a bit shorter than the pattern, maybe by 5cms due to pattern matching requirements.

I did cave and do the sleeve hems by hand.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Facings

Front facing – perfect! Two back facings – not perfect. For some unknown reason my two back facing pieces were way too short. I slashed and added 3cms to the length of the pattern piece and then recut and re-interfaced. This made them a little long, but at least they reached the zipper this way and nothing a little trimming couldn’t fix.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Zipper

The zipper was lapped as per Gertie’s instructions. I haven’t done a lapped zipper in a garment before! The only time I’ve done one was back at calico square stage all those years ago during my first ever sewing classes. I again took the quick and dirty option here and machined it in as opposed to hand picking. At first, I hated how it looked, but it’s grown on me a bit now, and I can’t see my back zipper when I’m wearing it anyway 🙂

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Overall, I must say that Gertie’s patterns really work for me. There were no other adjustments made for the wiggle dress, and it fits, like a glove! I think some of the pulling may have been avoided with underlining or a slip even, but again, wearable muslin = no underlining. Even when it’s not pulling, this beautiful polyester holds the creases from sitting etc.

Gertie's Wiggle Dress 1

Oh and I must mention this, today I found a pin in the dress. That alone = not funny. What makes it funny is that I wore the dress out a week ago for dinner and dancing, and washed it, with the pin in it. Didn’t get stabbed #ftw.

And, I’ve now cut this lovely lady out in the ‘real thing’ – a lovely royal blue wool crepe  all ready for sewing together. I’m just starting to get into Vine and have put a little video of the pattern cutting on there – anyone else using Vine? You can find me there at ZoSews, inspiring name I know.

Until next time… keep on sewin’

Z xx

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Gertie’s gussets

11 May

Lol. I am still making my Mad Men dress. Oops.

I’m using Gertie’s wiggle dress pattern with a Spotlight satin poly I’ve had for ages  – and I’m calling it a wearable toile (and a bit of a mother pucker to be honest – it’s pucker city here and no setting/needle etc change is helping). Next up I’ll be making the ‘real thing’ in a royal blue wool crepe. Ahhhh how I can’t wait to be back with a natural fibre.

This pattern has been relatively simple to work with, however a new technique for me was underarm gussets. Tricky little buggers. Made trickier by cutting before reading and discovering later that those lines I cut down were actually sewing lines – duh. Ah well, make it work ey! If I hadn’t been overzealous with the scissors, things would have been much easier. But anyway, here’s a light tutorial for the gussets based on my experience.

1. Attaching organza 

Organza pieces are attached to the right side of your fashion fabric. I used huge pieces that were trimmed later. If you look closely you can see that the outer fabric (under the organza) has already been cut – don’t do that! Refer aforementioned overzealous cutting. Mark your sewing and cutting lines too – you can just see mine in pink.

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2. Sew along sewing lines

Sew along the sewing lines – but still don’t cut! 

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3. Now cut!

Get your scissors out folks! Now is the time to cut up the cutting line – that you of course had previously marked on the fabric. 

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4. Turn and press

Turn your organza through to the other side (i.e. the wrong side of your fashion fabric) and press press press. 

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This is what it looks like from the right side.

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5. Attach the gusset piece

Because of my early cutting incident. This was trickier. However, I pushed and prodded the fabric and got the piece attached ok. Just ok, not brilliantly. As you’ll see below. It’s a toile – whatever (crosses arms and sticks out bottom lip). Then edge stitch to reinforce. You’ll see that my corners/points aren’t that pointy, another ramification of me getting scissor happy. 
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6. Stitch her up

When you attach your back dress pieces to the front you’ll be joining up your gussets – paying careful attention to matching up the seams. Then, they’ll look like this. Hopefully even better!

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There you have it, Gertie’s gussets! You’ll be able to see these in action once the dress is finished. Don’t hold your breath 😉

Z xx

PS – Gertie has her very own tutorial too. I’d recommend reading it before you make the gussets. Not after. Like me. That was silly. Let’s be honest, I still haven’t read it…