Advertisements
Tag Archives: pattern

Jeans update – pattern fidgeting commences

4 Jun

So, I have started drafting, getting creative with, or whatever you want to call it, the pattern for my upcoming jeans.

As mentioned, I had already traced off V8774 (both A and B versions), so on Saturday it was down to getting busy with scissors, masking tape, measuring tape and rulers.

I decided to hack up version B, the boot leg, rather than the straight – for purely lazy reasons – I might want to make a straight leg in the future and I don’t see a boot leg in my future. So I have saved the tracing of version A (straight leg) for, who knows when really?!

Here’s a picture of the back as it stands right now –

v8774 pattern back

I usually have to lengthen in both leg and crotch, so I’ve already made those adjustments to test with the toile, and I’ve attached the yoke making it all one piece (TBC whether this will continue this way yet – seemed like a good idea at the time, but I think I’ll add it back in as a separate piece). You’ll also see obviously that the leg was slashed up the middle. I spread it 5cm, pivoting out from the top and then straightened down to the hem to give me the more wide leg look I’m going for here.

And here’s the front –

v8774 pattern front

I still need to edit the pocket area, but you get the picture 🙂 You’ll also see that the curve down the inside leg has been kept.

These pieces very scribbly, but trust me, I know what the lines mean (well I did at the time, I hope I remember!).

So, hopefully (fingers crossed!!) I get to have a crack at these this coming weekend and see what happens. Note to self –  must alter waistband to match too.

Z xx

PS – I have a long weekend coming my way. Needless to say, I’m excited 🙂

PPS – That dastardly Beignet is finished!!!! My average button sewing time was 5 minutes. Photos to come.

 

Advertisements

V8146 – nearly there!

22 Apr

I had some divine mustard wool/cashmere blend (I think!) from The Fabric Store sitting around that was just begging to become a coat. One night while reviewing my pattern stash I thought, “Hang on a minute! I’ll use v8146 to create my first mustard delight”. I say ‘first’ because I have another mustard coat/jacket planned – obsessed much? Anyway, the only thing that irked me about v8146 is that it wasn’t lined, but I decided mine would be anyway 🙂

I jumped on the old Google to search for examples of others who had made this jacket, but I could only find the completed dress at Textisles and completed jacket at Orchids In May. Maybe there are more out there and I am just a bad searcher 🙂

V8146

The details so far…

To start with…

  • I cut a size 14 pattern based on bust size.
  • After paper fitting, I added 20cm to jacket length, and 10cm to the sleeve length pattern pieces. I have a long body and before adding the length it sat much too high – more like a bolero, and I wanted more length in the body and full length sleeves – rather than the 3/4 sleeves the pattern provides for.

After toile…

After completing and trying on the toile;

  • I added another 3cm to the sleeve length, another 5cm to the jacket length (to allow for hems) and 1cm width to the underarm to allow for movement in the thicker wool fabric and to avoid the lining splitting.
  • I also drafted a lining pattern for the jacket front, but planned to use other pattern pieces as is for lining pattern.
  • Decided that I didn’t actually want the collar as per pattern, which led to drafting a neck line facing, and some edits to the lining pattern pieces.
  • The lining fabric has a gorgeous pattern on it, so it was cut to make sure the pattern was highlighted appropriately :o) This meant that I actually ran out of the patterned lining and I didn’t have enough for the full sleeves. Enter another pattern alteration. Sleeves were slashed into two pieces (upper and lower), and the patterned fabric was used for the lower pieces so that if the cuffs were rolled up your eyes are delighted with pretty patterns, and the upper sleeves that aren’t really visible were made from some newly acquired lining in a complementary colour.
  • The mustard fashion fabric doesn’t fray so I didn’t have to finish the edges – yay! However, I did bind a few particular seams that may see the light of day in a satin mustard bias binding.
  • I have giant coconut buttons to add. But buttonholes at the size required would be unsightly. So instead I’m using magnets for closures, with the buttons sewn on for looks only 🙂

You would have seen a little splash of this jacket and the seam binding as a work in progress in A new winter wooly, and here’s a shot of the magnets being tacked in.

Magnets into v8146

And the giant coconut buttons…

Buttons for v8146

Did you know…

Now, if you ‘like’ ZoSews on Facebook, you may have seen my post yesterday – so my apologies for repeating! But, for those of you who didn’t see it,  did you know that an odd number of buttons is more pleasing to the eye ? It’s true! So while I do have four buttons above, I will only be using three 🙂

Anyway, hopefully I’ll have this jacket finished soon!

Z xx

PS – I awoke today to see that I had won a gorgeous brooch from Ruemiraldi via a giveaway over at JuliaBobbin! Must be my lucky day – thanks team!

Pear and Apple Dress

19 Feb

The first dress I made was V1102, an AKO number. I did love the look of it in black as it was on the pattern envelope, but for something a little more casual and fun, I decided to go ahead with this one in a lovely fruity Kokka fabric purchased from Amitie.

V1102 AKO dress pattern

V1102

(The model on this envelope really reminds me of someone… can’t put my finger on it though. What do you think?)

Here’s my finished product –

v1102

Alterations:

  • The bodice of this dress is lined, but rather than self-line it as per the pattern directions, I lined it with a kind of stone coloured cotton – avoiding the pear and apple pattern showing through from the wrong side.
  • I also used the lining fabric to bag out the bow at the back – rather than the edges being narrowly double hemmed. It gave a nicer finish I thought 🙂
  • The straps at the back of the bodice were shortened by about 1cm – wouldn’t want my top falling down would I!?
  • A bust adjustment, going up a about a size.
  • Narrowing centre back to avoid gaping around the zip – a snug fit is much nicer 🙂

v1102

Turning the bodice through a narrow shoulder strap was a patience and hand strength testing exercise – but I got there in the end!

Regarding the bow at the back, I have heard of someone who made it detachable. I think this is a great idea because if it’s slightly chilly you can’t wear the dress because you can’t wear a cardigan over the giant bow (hello hunchback). Another issue with the bow is that you need someone to ‘do you up’, or you have to do the bow up prior to putting it on and then wiggle into it. That said, the bow is one of the features I love.

I have actually sneaked this dress onto TV before too! Just in the background on the 7PM project – but still TV coverage 🙂

v1102

So there you have it – my Pear and Apple Dress! I think it’s quirky and fun – what do you think?

Zx

Flower Power skirt

11 Feb

The now OOP v8560 skirt was the first garment I made using a commercial pattern.  I was like a deer in headlights in my local fabric/haby chain store looking at patterns, notions and fabric – but very excited! (Of course this was before I knew the joys of buying patterns online!)

Now, regarding the aforementioned chain store (that shall remain nameless), I spent ages poring over pattern books, shortlisting, and re-shortlisting – finally coming to a decision. (And that is no mean feat for me, making decisions is tough!) I approached the desk, asked for the patterns, and how many do you think they had in stock? I’ll give you a hint – none! Yes, you heard right – none! Instead, they proceeded to send me over to another store (across the other side of the city) to get the pattern there. You’ll never guess… they didn’t have want I wanted there either! I now know better than to expect service in any of these stores. But, I digress….

I ended up purchasing a lovely bright floral cotton and contrasting blue cotton from Amitie which you can see in the photo below.

Flower power skirt

I made variation A (the pink version in the pattern envelope image above). And apart from being a complete newb, I had no huge problems with this pattern.

Alterations:

  • I added in piping in between the top and bottom yoke pieces using the contrast blue, I’m not sure if you can see it in these pics though sorry!
  • I doubled the width of the contrast hem band – I don’t like to show too much leg! 🙂
  • I used an invisible zip. I much prefer invisible zips.

I love that this skirt has pockets – more womenswear should have pockets! To avoid bulk, the pocket bags were made out of lining fabric, I think some kind of acetate.

Flower power skirt pocket

I love the bright print, and I have been known to wear this skirt into the office in the depths of winter, trying to imagine it’s summer.

So there you have it! My first commercial pattern. You can see more photos of my flower power skirt in finished projects.

Do you remember sewing your first commercial pattern? How did you go?