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Tag Archives: Papercut Patterns

Tutorial: Knit cuffs – Undercover Hood

18 Aug

I am so close to finishing my Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood. All that’s left to do is bind the neck and topstitch – yay! If you follow me on Facebook, Twitter or InstagramΒ you would have seen a sneaky peak of this garment last weekend.

The one thing that confuzzled me during construction were the cuffs/bands. I was having some serious ‘I don’t get it’ moments when putting these together, so I thought I’d share the details in case anyone else suffers the same moments. The stripes were messing with my head… This method will actually be relevant for any knit cuffs too.

Please note, it’s unlikely you’ll find this technique used on RTW garments, it’s bit more spesh πŸ™‚

 

Step 1

Lay your cuff on a flat surface right side up, with the top of the cuff at the top and the bottom at the bottom (i.e. closest to you). Fold in half on the vertical. You’ll then have a fold on the LHS, wrong side up, and the two edges on the RHS. Pin and sew the seam down the RHS using the allowance the pattern asks for. Making sure you match up your stripes too if you dare go to stripetown.

Knit cuff tutorial

 

Step 2

Press the seam allowance open.

How to make cuffs - press seam allowance Step 3

Turn through halfway – with the wrong sides inside. In my case I had to make sure that the halfway point lined up with a stripe. Also, just watch the seam allowances and flatten them out again if they bunch up – avoiding bulk.

How to make cuffs - turning through

 

Step 4

Pin the open seam and baste in place – again, watching stripes if necessary.

How to make cuffs - pin and baste

Step 5

Take the cuff and insert it down the sleeve, lining up the raw edges of the cuff with the raw edge of the sleeve. Line everything up and sew the cuff to the sleeve. I basted first to make sure my stripes played nice. Don’t forget to line up your seams and notches. πŸ™‚

How to make cuffs - applying

And when sewing, make sure you’re only sewing one side and not catching the other also. It’s a bit fiddly, but just take it slow.

How to make cuffs - sewing to the sleeveStep 6

Overlock (serge) the raw edge. I don’t like the idea of having to unpick overlocking (as detailed in, ‘Renfrew you, Renfrew me‘), so I turn through and check everything is just so (just ‘sew’ lol) before overlocking.

How to make cuffs - sergingStep 7

Turn through and voila! A very nice looking cuff. A press probably wouldn’t hurt here too.

How to make cuffs - finishedAnd that’s it! Is this how you make knit cuffs? It’s probably a bit old hat, but I wanted to get it down in case I suffer from another case of sewers confusion! Hopefully it’s at least helpful for some of you!

 

 

 

 

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Shopping: I went

22 Jul

I hit The Fabric Store‘s sale this weekend and got me some fun new things to play with – I thought I’d share my haul with y’all.

1. Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood

This looks like it’s going to be a really quick make (yay!). And, could this packaging be any more fabulous?

 

I was a good girl and traced it off and washed my fabric yesterday. Like my fancy pattern weight?

I’m going to make the Undercover Hood in a delightful pink and grey striped Marc Jacobs knit, also from The Fabric Store. Here it isΒ  drying on the line. And, drum roll, I’m not making a toile – yep, this is me, rebelling.

 

2. Green and white silk

I’m planning to use this as lining for a Sewaholic Minoru πŸ™‚ Don’t hold your breath on that turning up though!

3. Black wool

And this is the planned outer fabric for the aforementioned Minoru – inspired by the black wool Minoru from Sew Brunswick!

4. Black and white silk

Last one, don’t know what this will end up as but I was attached so bought it anyway. Don’t judge – we’ve all been there πŸ˜‰ Let me know if you have any ideas!

I think The Fabric Store is my favourite fabric retailer in Melbourne – great range, I always seem to find things I like there, and finally the staff are really helpful, and lovely! My mustard jacket was made with fabric from there too πŸ™‚ (v8146 – nearly there and Presenting v8146)

What have you guys purchased lately?

Z xx