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Tag Archives: Overlock

Tutorial: Knit cuffs – Undercover Hood

18 Aug

I am so close to finishing my Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood. All that’s left to do is bind the neck and topstitch – yay! If you follow me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram you would have seen a sneaky peak of this garment last weekend.

The one thing that confuzzled me during construction were the cuffs/bands. I was having some serious ‘I don’t get it’ moments when putting these together, so I thought I’d share the details in case anyone else suffers the same moments. The stripes were messing with my head… This method will actually be relevant for any knit cuffs too.

Please note, it’s unlikely you’ll find this technique used on RTW garments, it’s bit more spesh 🙂

 

Step 1

Lay your cuff on a flat surface right side up, with the top of the cuff at the top and the bottom at the bottom (i.e. closest to you). Fold in half on the vertical. You’ll then have a fold on the LHS, wrong side up, and the two edges on the RHS. Pin and sew the seam down the RHS using the allowance the pattern asks for. Making sure you match up your stripes too if you dare go to stripetown.

Knit cuff tutorial

 

Step 2

Press the seam allowance open.

How to make cuffs - press seam allowance Step 3

Turn through halfway – with the wrong sides inside. In my case I had to make sure that the halfway point lined up with a stripe. Also, just watch the seam allowances and flatten them out again if they bunch up – avoiding bulk.

How to make cuffs - turning through

 

Step 4

Pin the open seam and baste in place – again, watching stripes if necessary.

How to make cuffs - pin and baste

Step 5

Take the cuff and insert it down the sleeve, lining up the raw edges of the cuff with the raw edge of the sleeve. Line everything up and sew the cuff to the sleeve. I basted first to make sure my stripes played nice. Don’t forget to line up your seams and notches. 🙂

How to make cuffs - applying

And when sewing, make sure you’re only sewing one side and not catching the other also. It’s a bit fiddly, but just take it slow.

How to make cuffs - sewing to the sleeveStep 6

Overlock (serge) the raw edge. I don’t like the idea of having to unpick overlocking (as detailed in, ‘Renfrew you, Renfrew me‘), so I turn through and check everything is just so (just ‘sew’ lol) before overlocking.

How to make cuffs - sergingStep 7

Turn through and voila! A very nice looking cuff. A press probably wouldn’t hurt here too.

How to make cuffs - finishedAnd that’s it! Is this how you make knit cuffs? It’s probably a bit old hat, but I wanted to get it down in case I suffer from another case of sewers confusion! Hopefully it’s at least helpful for some of you!

 

 

 

 

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Renfrew you, Renfrew me

28 Apr

A couple of months back now, I took advantage of Tasia’s birthday discount and ordered myself a Renfrew, Lonsdale and Minoru. I already had the Pendrell and the Crescent skirt. And just quietly, I can’t wait to get my hands on the new Cambie too!

I tackled my first Renfrew in view C, the cowl neck. I had seen so many lovely versions online, and I wanted to join in the fun! I particularly liked Leith’s lovely yellow number. The plan was that this go was going to be my toile, with the hope that it would be a wearable one 🙂

So, over Easter, I Renfrewed it up. And this is what I ended up with. (Ignore how awkwardly it’s sitting above the bust, no mirror in the park to check prior to photos 🙂 )

Renfrew front view

What size to make?

It took me quite a bit of thinking and consideration to decide what size to make. The Renfrews I had seen online looked like there was quite a lot of ease in the pattern, and I was after something a little more fitted. So considering my measurements, the finished measurements and the fit I was after, I ended up making; the cuffs at a 10 (will go 8 next time), the front and back at an 8 grading to a 10 at the hip (will shape this in more next time, likely staying at 8 the whole way down), the cowl at an 8, sleeves at a 10 (will grade to an 8 below the elbow next time), and the waistband at a 10 (will go 8 next time).

Renfrew back view

The back - a bit baggy

More details:

  • I constructed the whole thing on my overlocker (serger). This was so quick and easy – loved it!
  • It’s made out of a stretch wool blend (??) from Darn Cheap Fabrics

If you are making view C, please, please note there is an error in the instructions. In the words of Sewaholic, “In Sewing Step 6, for View C, text should read ‘Sew collar pieces right sides together along un-notched edge’.”

Of course, I did not find this out until I started Googling after my tantrum of not being able to make it work. Joy.

At first, I had just gone ahead and sewn it correctly without reading the instructions (win!), but then, I stupidly read the instructions and tried to unpick the overlocking. This was a nightmare!! So I did something naughty and just cut it off. Gasp!

I then overlocked it together again as per incorrect instructions. Attempting the next step (step 7) would subsequently not work because it was now obviously constructed incorrectly.

Then I realised i had sewn it right the first time, and had to pull it apart and put it back together again. Cue tantrum. And I must confess, I did just cut the row of overlocking off again.

Renfrew cowl

The finished cowl

But it was all ok in the end.

I was a bit hesitant with the whole knit thing (I have a ‘knit scar’), but given that there were lovely cuffs and a waistband rather than those awful to sew double stitched hems – and I decided to overlock the whole thing – it was really quite easy (apart from the aforementioned tantrum).

And the best bit is, that even though I will change it for next time, this is totally wearable!

Here’s some more pictures:

Renfrew cuff

The cuff

 

Renfrew serging

The delightful overlocking and waistband

Oh and I am so so close to the finish line with my v8146, half a hand stitched hem and some prick stitching to go!!