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WIP: Dove Fitted T

26 Nov

I am supposed to be blogging about a dress I finished and wore to my 30th birthday soiree (karoke anyone?!), but I couldn’t wait to see what y’all think about my next WIP, the Sinbad and Sailor Dove Fitted T, so you’re going to have to wait for the dress – sorry!

As I mentioned in my last post, Hannah from S&S contacted me and asked if I’d like to make this garment. I’ve now completed a trial garment in a funny little (cheap!) print cotton from Spotlight in a straight size 12 so you guys get the best idea of the pattern out of the box – before I Zoe-ise it!!

Here’s the front – sorry about the grainy pics… eeek. To me, the fit was perfect – until I added the sleeves. There’s now those drag lines from the bust… any ideas peeps? Also, once the sleeves were on there wasn’t a whole lotta room to move – you know when you’re trying to put your arms out in front of you… Again, tips welcome here! The ideas I’ve had to address this so far are to maybe add 1cm to the back, or look at the height, and back line of the sleeve piece. Who knows?! Tell me πŸ™‚ PS – like my pretty necklace? T’was a b’day present from some lovely ladies πŸ™‚

Sinbad and Sailor Dove Fitted T

And here’s the back. Looking pretty good I think. I am wondering about those funky lines at the back of the sleeve – do they mean something?

Dove fitted T back

The instructions were really clear, with lots of details, for example, …don’t backstitch…, and this would be a great garment for anyone who doesn’t have an overlocker because cleverly all many of the raw edges are neatly tucked in under another fold.

The open back means you can just pull it on and off over your head without adding any kind of closure. Oh, and I really like the neckline.

Changes I’m going to make for the ‘real’ one

In addition to any fitting changes;

  • The back opening: I want to be able to wear this to work, and would feel a little bare with skin showing at the back. So, I’m thinking, I’ll either a.) make the pieces wider and cross over more, or b.) add a pretty little tie at the bottom that can tie the pieces together. Β Or maybe even both. Or I could just wear a singlet underneath lol. Or do you have another idea you’d like to share?
  • Neck facings: I found the trickiest part of this garment the front neck facing, there was some serious easing required. So, the next one, I’m going to use bias binding around the neck. Whilst this eliminates the facing, the reason for this change was design related rather than issues with construction (yet a nice coincidence πŸ™‚ ).
  • Length: As per usual, I will lengthen, probably by about 4cm.

I’m going to use a ridiculously cool printed rayon that’s going to have much more drape than this little number – can you tell I’m excited? πŸ˜‰

Love to hear your tips and thoughts! And fess up, what’s on your sewing table that’s exciting you at the moment?

Z xx

 

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Finished: v8774

6 Nov

So these jeans have been finished a while now, I just haven’t had the desire to blog about them. Don’t get me wrong, I like them, but they don’t fit quite right now thanks to me dropping a few kgs. So, I fell a bit out of love with them. Anyway, here’s the last piece to their story.

There was so much frankenpatterning on this garment I ended up like a crazy, multiple personalitied person…

So we left off here, with pattern traced, slashed and spread.

Then there was a calico created, and a calico adjusted. UnsurprisinglyΒ there was waaaaaaaay too much room in the leg of these pants – even with the wide legged look I was going for. This was rectified with some quick cutting. The photo below shows what was cut off and then transferred back to the pattern. Like my floral ‘calico’? I got a bolt for equivalent $2 p/m at Spotlight – bargain! πŸ˜‰

v8774 - leg changes

There’s also a whole lot of drafting that’s gone on up top.

Pockets

The back of the pockets (side pieces) were re-drafted in to two pieces to avoid uncomfortable bulk in the pocket bag. So now, they’re denim up top and cotton down below. You might recognise the pretty floral cotton from my Happy homemade shirred tunic. Also, the shape of pockets was changed – bringing the entrance up higher – clearly a very technical description πŸ™‚

v8774 pocketsPocket facings

These have also been re-drafted. You can see below shown with pink dotted lines how the pocket was reshaped, and also the whole pocket facing changed. The facing will now join up to centre front, this should help to keep the pocket back in place and not scrunching up. The front pocket bag is shown with the blue dotted line too.

v8774 pattern redrafting

Enough about that – let me now introduce the finished product:

Some notes:

  • Belt loops: If you’re going to go down the path of v8774 watch the belt loops. If I had my time again I’d make them thinner. Just personal preference.
  • Belt loops: Also, for some unknown reason the pattern has you put the side back belt loops joining to the top of the waistband down to the bottom yolk seam… weird. I blindly followed the instructions without thinking and then had to cut them out of the yolk and reposition the bottom of the loop to the bottom of the waistband. What. the.
  • Fly: I had never made a fly before. I didn’t really have any dramas which was nice! Only change I made was instead of bias binding it, I just overlocked the edge.
  • Buttonhole: The worst bit of these was the freaking buttonhole!!! It would just not do what it was told!!! Fabric wasn’t feeding properly, stitches were all over the place, I had to unpick the thing something like four times! What was more frustrating is that on two layers of interfaced denim, testing the buttonhole, it worked perfectly, every goddam time!!! GAH! Oh well, the buttonhole eventually got there and the jeans have a keyhole shaped buttonhole now.
  • Pin tucks: Those pretty lines on all the pockets are just super tiny pin tucks. Length was measured and drawn straight on with tailors chalk. Taken from my inspiration jeans.

So that’s it. My new jeans. What do you think? Have you made a garment and straight away filed it under ‘meh’?

Hope everyone in Melbourne had a great Melbourne Cup Day too πŸ™‚

Z xx

Tutorial: Knit cuffs – Undercover Hood

18 Aug

I am so close to finishing my Papercut Patterns Undercover Hood. All that’s left to do is bind the neck and topstitch – yay! If you follow me on Facebook, Twitter or InstagramΒ you would have seen a sneaky peak of this garment last weekend.

The one thing that confuzzled me during construction were the cuffs/bands. I was having some serious ‘I don’t get it’ moments when putting these together, so I thought I’d share the details in case anyone else suffers the same moments. The stripes were messing with my head… This method will actually be relevant for any knit cuffs too.

Please note, it’s unlikely you’ll find this technique used on RTW garments, it’s bit more spesh πŸ™‚

 

Step 1

Lay your cuff on a flat surface right side up, with the top of the cuff at the top and the bottom at the bottom (i.e. closest to you). Fold in half on the vertical. You’ll then have a fold on the LHS, wrong side up, and the two edges on the RHS. Pin and sew the seam down the RHS using the allowance the pattern asks for. Making sure you match up your stripes too if you dare go to stripetown.

Knit cuff tutorial

 

Step 2

Press the seam allowance open.

How to make cuffs - press seam allowance Step 3

Turn through halfway – with the wrong sides inside. In my case I had to make sure that the halfway point lined up with a stripe. Also, just watch the seam allowances and flatten them out again if they bunch up – avoiding bulk.

How to make cuffs - turning through

 

Step 4

Pin the open seam and baste in place – again, watching stripes if necessary.

How to make cuffs - pin and baste

Step 5

Take the cuff and insert it down the sleeve, lining up the raw edges of the cuff with the raw edge of the sleeve. Line everything up and sew the cuff to the sleeve. I basted first to make sure my stripes played nice. Don’t forget to line up your seams and notches. πŸ™‚

How to make cuffs - applying

And when sewing, make sure you’re only sewing one side and not catching the other also. It’s a bit fiddly, but just take it slow.

How to make cuffs - sewing to the sleeveStep 6

Overlock (serge) the raw edge. I don’t like the idea of having to unpick overlocking (as detailed in, ‘Renfrew you, Renfrew me‘), so I turn through and check everything is just so (just ‘sew’ lol) before overlocking.

How to make cuffs - sergingStep 7

Turn through and voila! A very nice looking cuff. A press probably wouldn’t hurt here too.

How to make cuffs - finishedAnd that’s it! Is this how you make knit cuffs? It’s probably a bit old hat, but I wanted to get it down in case I suffer from another case of sewers confusion! Hopefully it’s at least helpful for some of you!

 

 

 

 

Jeans update – pattern fidgeting commences

4 Jun

So, I have started drafting, getting creative with, or whatever you want to call it, the pattern for my upcoming jeans.

As mentioned, I had already traced off V8774 (both A and B versions), so on Saturday it was down to getting busy with scissors, masking tape, measuring tape and rulers.

I decided to hack up version B, the boot leg, rather than the straight – for purely lazy reasons – I might want to make a straight leg in the future and I don’t see a boot leg in my future. So I have saved the tracing of version A (straight leg) for, who knows when really?!

Here’s a picture of the back as it stands right now –

v8774 pattern back

I usually have to lengthen in both leg and crotch, so I’ve already made those adjustments to test with the toile, and I’ve attached the yoke making it all one piece (TBC whether this will continue this way yet – seemed like a good idea at the time, but I think I’ll add it back in as a separate piece). You’ll also see obviously that the leg was slashed up the middle. I spread it 5cm, pivoting out from the top and then straightened down to the hem to give me the more wide leg look I’m going for here.

And here’s the front –

v8774 pattern front

I still need to edit the pocket area, but you get the picture πŸ™‚ You’ll also see that the curve down the inside leg has been kept.

These pieces very scribbly, but trust me, I know what the lines mean (well I did at the time, I hope I remember!).

So, hopefully (fingers crossed!!) I get to have a crack at these this coming weekend and see what happens. Note to self –Β  must alter waistband to match too.

Z xx

PS – I have a long weekend coming my way. Needless to say, I’m excited πŸ™‚

PPS – That dastardly Beignet is finished!!!! My average button sewing time was 5 minutes. Photos to come.

 

Jeans ahoy!

27 May

I’ve wanted to try out making some jeans for a little while now, but after seeing Poppykettle’s delightful Turquoise Terror Jeans, I knew they had to be moved up the list of ‘to do’ projects.

My inspiration lies with Sass and Bide‘s Rabbit Boy jeans – I had a pair quite some years ago now, and I LOVED them and wore them to death! Literally. To. Death. They were stitched up a few times, but eventually they left this world. You can see a good pic of the Rabbit Boy style on missea, about halfway down the page.

I’m basing my pattern on V8774 (pic below) which I traced off today. Step one, ‘tracing’, complete.

V8774

I’m using the below denim from Darn Cheap Fabrics – eventually (sorry about the dodgy photo). I wouldn’t hold your breath on these ones though folks. I still have to finalize that darn Beignet, then I imagine there’ll be a bit of drafting and testing before I even get to cut these bad girls out.

My Rabbit Boy denim

I’ve also started pondering a Ceylon. What do you think about this Blue Fitzgerald Liberty Tana Lawn for it? Like?

Fitzgerald 03632155D

Or how about this Japanese Cotton from Tessuti?

Green Hanataba

So that’s what’s going to be coming up and across my sewing table in the near future (well hopefully it’ll be near!).

On a different note, I spent the weekend back at my mum’s place, and got to have some serious play time with the gorgeous puppies (family too lol). Check them out.

This is Oscar, a scatty Jack Russell…

Jack Russell Terrier

Here’s Alice, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and very cuddly and floppy (and pretty!)…

Cavalier King Charles Spaniel

I also got to meet some new additions to my Godfather’s household;

Sam, a black Labradoodle pup who I’m sure is on some kind of amphetamines,

Black Labradoodle

And Sam’s little brother, Fred who likes to chew jewellery and pull hair

Chocolate Labradoodle

And while we’re talking doggies, here’s a pic of my Grandparents’ pug, Jazz, who recently passed on to the land of doggy heaven 😦

Pug

So if you didn’t already pick, I am somewhat of a ‘dog’ person, and really miss having one around the house. But it is now very exciting when I do get to play πŸ™‚

What did you get up to this weekend? Much sewing time?

Winner winner chicken dinner!

20 May

At the start of the month I was lucky enough to be a winner of a lucky dip over at Kestrel Finds and Makes. And this week, my winner’s package arrived – all the way from Glasgow! Thanks Kestrel!

There was Simplicity 7780 with a range of shirts, from 1968, and Butterick 4225 with a lovely dress and jacket (can’t see a date on this one, but to my untrained eye it looks maybe 1970s). How exciting!

The dress in particular struck me, and made me think of the black and white bird fabric I’d seen over at Bimble and Pimble… may just have to get my butt down to Spotlight to pick some up – I think it would work! The neckline of this dress also reminds me of the new Colette patterns, Hazel and Lily.

Lucky dip patterns - kestrel finds and makes - simplicity 7780 butterick 4225

You may have read also that I was the winner of a brooch from JuliaBobbin / RueMiraldi. With all these prizes coming my way, I think I should be buying a lottery ticket! But anyway, here’s a picture of the brooch – isn’t it lovely!

Vintage brooch - Julia Bobbin

And finally, I spent the afternoon at Love Vintage yesterday with two lovely ladies from my sewing class. Where I picked up these patterns…

Love Vintage Melbourne patterns - simplicity 7239 style 1980 home journal pattern 11541

The blouse on the right is my favourite πŸ™‚ It seems I did have a blonde moment when purchasing these unfortunately (nothing against blondes – I was one for many many years)… See the middle pattern, yep, the one with the lovely pussy bow blouse? Yep. Right. Well it’s actually a pattern for the skirts not the blouse. Doh! Not that I hate the skirts or anything, but I really did only buy it for the blouse! Dammit! I only realised when I got home…

I also got these magnificent Alexis Kirk earrings that I am completely in love with. Now I just need to find somewhere to wear them…

Alexis Kirk earrings

And I’m still chugging along with my Beignet… not long to go now, here’s a sneak peak…

Beignet sneak peakHow was your weekend? Did you get much sewing done?

Zxx

V8146 – nearly there!

22 Apr

I had some divine mustard wool/cashmere blend (I think!) from The Fabric Store sitting around that was just begging to become a coat. One night while reviewing my pattern stash I thought, “Hang on a minute! I’ll use v8146 to create my first mustard delight”. I say ‘first’ because I have another mustard coat/jacket planned – obsessed much? Anyway, the only thing that irked me about v8146 is that it wasn’t lined, but I decided mine would be anyway πŸ™‚

I jumped on the old Google to search for examples of others who had made this jacket, but I could only find the completed dress at Textisles and completed jacket at Orchids In May. Maybe there are more out there and I am just a bad searcher πŸ™‚

V8146

The details so far…

To start with…

  • I cut a size 14 pattern based on bust size.
  • After paper fitting, I added 20cm to jacket length, and 10cm to the sleeve length pattern pieces. I have a long body and before adding the length it sat much too high – more like a bolero, and I wanted more length in the body and full length sleeves – rather than the 3/4 sleeves the pattern provides for.

After toile…

After completing and trying on the toile;

  • I added another 3cm to the sleeve length, another 5cm to the jacket length (to allow for hems) and 1cm width to the underarm to allow for movement in the thicker wool fabric and to avoid the lining splitting.
  • I also drafted a lining pattern for the jacket front, but planned to use other pattern pieces as is for lining pattern.
  • Decided that I didn’t actually want the collar as per pattern, which led to drafting a neck line facing, and some edits to the lining pattern pieces.
  • The lining fabric has a gorgeous pattern on it, so it was cut to make sure the pattern was highlighted appropriately :o) This meant that I actually ran out of the patterned lining and I didn’t have enough for the full sleeves. Enter another pattern alteration. Sleeves were slashed into two pieces (upper and lower), and the patterned fabric was used for the lower pieces so that if the cuffs were rolled up your eyes are delighted with pretty patterns, and the upper sleeves that aren’t really visible were made from some newly acquired lining in a complementary colour.
  • The mustard fashion fabric doesn’t fray so I didn’t have to finish the edges – yay! However, I did bind a few particular seams that may see the light of day in a satin mustard bias binding.
  • I have giant coconut buttons to add. But buttonholes at the size required would be unsightly. So instead I’m using magnets for closures, with the buttons sewn on for looks only πŸ™‚

You would have seen a little splash of this jacket and the seam binding as a work in progress in A new winter wooly, and here’s a shot of the magnets being tacked in.

Magnets into v8146

And the giant coconut buttons…

Buttons for v8146

Did you know…

Now, if you ‘like’ ZoSews on Facebook, you may have seen my post yesterday – so my apologies for repeating! But, for those of you who didn’t see it,Β  did you know that an odd number of buttons is more pleasing to the eye ? It’s true! So while I do have four buttons above, I will only be using three πŸ™‚

Anyway, hopefully I’ll have this jacket finished soon!

Z xx

PS – I awoke today to see that I had won a gorgeous brooch from Ruemiraldi via a giveaway over at JuliaBobbin! Must be my lucky day – thanks team!

A new winter wooly

27 Mar

In Melbourne, you can definitely tell that winter is rearing its ugly head – even though we’re only in the first month of Autumn! (I am one for summer – can you tell?)

But I guess one benefit of winter is that you get to pull out your cosy winter woolies.

And here’s my latest winter wooly addition. I love how cosy it is. Mother of ZoSews knitted it for me and I wore for the first time on the weekend.

Fair Isle Alpaca

It’s made out of Alpaca and it’s very warm. I wore it to my friend’s 30th birthday do, and I got so hot in it that I had to remove it and borrow some cooler clothes!

Fair Isle alpaca knit

This jumper came about because I decided after Christmas that I wanted to learn to knit, and this fair isle jumper was the pattern I selected to start with. Hahaha! I think mother of ZoSews took pity on me and my naivety and quickly offered to knit this for me while also suggesting that perhaps I start with something more simple. So I made a hat instead (photos to come).

And just to up the ante, I made mother of ZoSews knit with double threads because I didn’t want the pattern prescribed yarn for this jumper (it was yukky and synthetic) and the alpaca yarn was too fine to use as a single thread. Mwah ha ha ha!

Fair isle alpaca knitted jumper

Brrrrr it's cold!

I think it turned out just lovely. I will have to save it for particularly cold occasions though!

Do you knit? I started to because I thought it was a nice option for something to do when I don’t want to barricade myself away at a sewing machine to sew.

And speaking of sewing, here’s a glimpse of one of my WIPs…

v8146 seam binding

Z xx