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Finished: v8774

6 Nov

So these jeans have been finished a while now, I just haven’t had the desire to blog about them. Don’t get me wrong, I like them, but they don’t fit quite right now thanks to me dropping a few kgs. So, I fell a bit out of love with them. Anyway, here’s the last piece to their story.

There was so much frankenpatterning on this garment I ended up like a crazy, multiple personalitied person…

So we left off here, with pattern traced, slashed and spread.

Then there was a calico created, and a calico adjusted. Unsurprisingly there was waaaaaaaay too much room in the leg of these pants – even with the wide legged look I was going for. This was rectified with some quick cutting. The photo below shows what was cut off and then transferred back to the pattern. Like my floral ‘calico’? I got a bolt for equivalent $2 p/m at Spotlight – bargain! 😉

v8774 - leg changes

There’s also a whole lot of drafting that’s gone on up top.

Pockets

The back of the pockets (side pieces) were re-drafted in to two pieces to avoid uncomfortable bulk in the pocket bag. So now, they’re denim up top and cotton down below. You might recognise the pretty floral cotton from my Happy homemade shirred tunic. Also, the shape of pockets was changed – bringing the entrance up higher – clearly a very technical description 🙂

v8774 pocketsPocket facings

These have also been re-drafted. You can see below shown with pink dotted lines how the pocket was reshaped, and also the whole pocket facing changed. The facing will now join up to centre front, this should help to keep the pocket back in place and not scrunching up. The front pocket bag is shown with the blue dotted line too.

v8774 pattern redrafting

Enough about that – let me now introduce the finished product:

Some notes:

  • Belt loops: If you’re going to go down the path of v8774 watch the belt loops. If I had my time again I’d make them thinner. Just personal preference.
  • Belt loops: Also, for some unknown reason the pattern has you put the side back belt loops joining to the top of the waistband down to the bottom yolk seam… weird. I blindly followed the instructions without thinking and then had to cut them out of the yolk and reposition the bottom of the loop to the bottom of the waistband. What. the.
  • Fly: I had never made a fly before. I didn’t really have any dramas which was nice! Only change I made was instead of bias binding it, I just overlocked the edge.
  • Buttonhole: The worst bit of these was the freaking buttonhole!!! It would just not do what it was told!!! Fabric wasn’t feeding properly, stitches were all over the place, I had to unpick the thing something like four times! What was more frustrating is that on two layers of interfaced denim, testing the buttonhole, it worked perfectly, every goddam time!!! GAH! Oh well, the buttonhole eventually got there and the jeans have a keyhole shaped buttonhole now.
  • Pin tucks: Those pretty lines on all the pockets are just super tiny pin tucks. Length was measured and drawn straight on with tailors chalk. Taken from my inspiration jeans.

So that’s it. My new jeans. What do you think? Have you made a garment and straight away filed it under ‘meh’?

Hope everyone in Melbourne had a great Melbourne Cup Day too 🙂

Z xx

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Happy homemade shirred tunic

29 Jul

I was absolutely delighted last Christmas to receive a Japanese pattern book from my lovely friend Lulu. What added to it is that Lulu’s not even a sewer, but she was all over the Japanese pattern books – loved it!

The particular book that I was kindly gifted was happy homemade vol. 1 treasured collection, by Yoshiko Tsukiori – in English, oh yes! (My Japanese is certainly not what it used to be, and given that it was never much chop to start with… you see where I’m going here.)

Happy Homemade vol. 1 treasured collection

The first pattern I made, and unfortunately the only one I’ve made so far, is G – Shirred dress – using a Japanese cotton from Spotlight teamed with a cute cotton trim from Tessuti.

G - shirred dress

This is me, wearing my ‘dress’ (that I’ve actually decided is a tunic – way too short for me as a dress!). I did think about adding extra length to make it more of a dress length, but I like wearing tunic length tops so left it as it was.

ZoSews shirred dress

Don’t mind the creases!

shirred dress side

Here’s a close up of the trim and shirring. It was the first time I’d shirred anything, it wasn’t hard – I’d recommend you give it a go, if you haven’t already of course! The pattern called for four rows of shirring, but I added an extra one (total of five rows) at the top to stop any gaping/flapping at the neckline.

close up of shirring and trim
I was lazy and didn’t baste the trim first which made it a bit of a &^%$ to sew on, but by the time I’d hit the trouble spots (namely, the corners) I’d gone too far and was way past stopping so I ploughed on- you know how it is. That, and the fact the print on the fabric hides a multitude of sins – like ugly stitching 🙂

sleeve with tessuti trim

One other ‘moment’ I had – I stupidly cut out the sleeves together without ‘good sides together’ so I ended up with two sleeves shaped the same. Luckily there was only a slight difference between the front and back of the sleeve in this pattern, so I just altered the seam allowance a little on one to make it work.

A couple of other notes:

  • I redrafted the facings to make them wider, and separate pieces, rather than one long, thin piece of about 1.5 cm width. One, because it was easier to sew that way, and two, because the wider facings would sit better while being worn.
  • These patterns keep you on your toes – there’s many different seam allowances used and I decided to follow the instructions on this. You need to make sure you’re all the ball and using the correct allowance size on the correct seam.

So that’s my first foray in to the world of Japanese patterns – and I like it! Have you sewn any garments out of any of the Japanese pattern books? What did you think?

Z xx

PS – Are you watching the Olympics? I’m hooked 🙂

 

And the Bombshell is off and running

8 Jun

I have no fashion fabric (but I know what I want); I have minimal notions. But I have loads of enthusiasm, a pattern and calico galore! So let the bombshell commence. And I also have a long weekend – happy birthday to HRM Elizabeth II, and thank you for the day off! (Yes, I know it’s not her real birthday.)

And yes, I also understand I am working on jeans at the moment – but no-one said creation was a linear process – and watching Caffy’s dress emerge has inspired me no end!

So so far Gertie’s bombshell dress is dress of firsts for me;

  • First Burda pattern
  • First time transfer paper and wheel used
  • First time dealing with freestyle seam allowances (leaving guesstimated allowances)
  • First time thread tracing

I must say, I am intrigued as to what the point of thread tracing is… I’m sure I’ll find out soon enough though!

I am making an adjustment to the pattern straight away, grading up from my bust size 40, to waist size 42 – I’m making an educated guess, but I do miss the waist point markers you’d usually get with, say a Vogue pattern.

Also, hot tip from me to you – don’t use yellow transfer paper with calico. It looks like this:

Pattern tracing

Which is why – you guessed it – I then went over all my markings again with my orange marker.

Here is the offending paper (can you believe it was nearly $10! 16c a centimetre, a centimetre – what a laugh!) and the results of my hard work.

Next up – thread tracing. (Honestly, I was supposed to thread trace tonight, but Fashion Star has just started showing in Australia and it popped up on my TV and distracted me…)

Zxx

Jeans update – pattern fidgeting commences

4 Jun

So, I have started drafting, getting creative with, or whatever you want to call it, the pattern for my upcoming jeans.

As mentioned, I had already traced off V8774 (both A and B versions), so on Saturday it was down to getting busy with scissors, masking tape, measuring tape and rulers.

I decided to hack up version B, the boot leg, rather than the straight – for purely lazy reasons – I might want to make a straight leg in the future and I don’t see a boot leg in my future. So I have saved the tracing of version A (straight leg) for, who knows when really?!

Here’s a picture of the back as it stands right now –

v8774 pattern back

I usually have to lengthen in both leg and crotch, so I’ve already made those adjustments to test with the toile, and I’ve attached the yoke making it all one piece (TBC whether this will continue this way yet – seemed like a good idea at the time, but I think I’ll add it back in as a separate piece). You’ll also see obviously that the leg was slashed up the middle. I spread it 5cm, pivoting out from the top and then straightened down to the hem to give me the more wide leg look I’m going for here.

And here’s the front –

v8774 pattern front

I still need to edit the pocket area, but you get the picture 🙂 You’ll also see that the curve down the inside leg has been kept.

These pieces very scribbly, but trust me, I know what the lines mean (well I did at the time, I hope I remember!).

So, hopefully (fingers crossed!!) I get to have a crack at these this coming weekend and see what happens. Note to self –  must alter waistband to match too.

Z xx

PS – I have a long weekend coming my way. Needless to say, I’m excited 🙂

PPS – That dastardly Beignet is finished!!!! My average button sewing time was 5 minutes. Photos to come.