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V8146 – nearly there!

22 Apr

I had some divine mustard wool/cashmere blend (I think!) from The Fabric Store sitting around that was just begging to become a coat. One night while reviewing my pattern stash I thought, “Hang on a minute! I’ll use v8146 to create my first mustard delight”. I say ‘first’ because I have another mustard coat/jacket planned – obsessed much? Anyway, the only thing that irked me about v8146 is that it wasn’t lined, but I decided mine would be anyway 🙂

I jumped on the old Google to search for examples of others who had made this jacket, but I could only find the completed dress at Textisles and completed jacket at Orchids In May. Maybe there are more out there and I am just a bad searcher 🙂

V8146

The details so far…

To start with…

  • I cut a size 14 pattern based on bust size.
  • After paper fitting, I added 20cm to jacket length, and 10cm to the sleeve length pattern pieces. I have a long body and before adding the length it sat much too high – more like a bolero, and I wanted more length in the body and full length sleeves – rather than the 3/4 sleeves the pattern provides for.

After toile…

After completing and trying on the toile;

  • I added another 3cm to the sleeve length, another 5cm to the jacket length (to allow for hems) and 1cm width to the underarm to allow for movement in the thicker wool fabric and to avoid the lining splitting.
  • I also drafted a lining pattern for the jacket front, but planned to use other pattern pieces as is for lining pattern.
  • Decided that I didn’t actually want the collar as per pattern, which led to drafting a neck line facing, and some edits to the lining pattern pieces.
  • The lining fabric has a gorgeous pattern on it, so it was cut to make sure the pattern was highlighted appropriately :o) This meant that I actually ran out of the patterned lining and I didn’t have enough for the full sleeves. Enter another pattern alteration. Sleeves were slashed into two pieces (upper and lower), and the patterned fabric was used for the lower pieces so that if the cuffs were rolled up your eyes are delighted with pretty patterns, and the upper sleeves that aren’t really visible were made from some newly acquired lining in a complementary colour.
  • The mustard fashion fabric doesn’t fray so I didn’t have to finish the edges – yay! However, I did bind a few particular seams that may see the light of day in a satin mustard bias binding.
  • I have giant coconut buttons to add. But buttonholes at the size required would be unsightly. So instead I’m using magnets for closures, with the buttons sewn on for looks only 🙂

You would have seen a little splash of this jacket and the seam binding as a work in progress in A new winter wooly, and here’s a shot of the magnets being tacked in.

Magnets into v8146

And the giant coconut buttons…

Buttons for v8146

Did you know…

Now, if you ‘like’ ZoSews on Facebook, you may have seen my post yesterday – so my apologies for repeating! But, for those of you who didn’t see it,  did you know that an odd number of buttons is more pleasing to the eye ? It’s true! So while I do have four buttons above, I will only be using three 🙂

Anyway, hopefully I’ll have this jacket finished soon!

Z xx

PS – I awoke today to see that I had won a gorgeous brooch from Ruemiraldi via a giveaway over at JuliaBobbin! Must be my lucky day – thanks team!

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